Whenever I show friends the photos from my trips to Myanmar a common question is: “What’s that white stuff on their faces?” I’m not surprised by the puzzlement; in Myanmar you see that “weird white stuff” on the faces of nearly all the women and young children.

This paste – which is actually more of a beige color – is called thanaka and it’s made from the bark of a tree by the same name. Thanaka paste is used for several purposes: it acts as a sunscreen, a skin moisturizer, and as a cosmetic beauty aid. Plus, it smells good, too! I’ve had more than one Myanmar man tell me that he likes the smell of thanaka on a lady! It is also claimed that thanaka can remove acne and other skin infections, and that the leaves from the thanaka tree can be used to treat malaria. The thanaka tree also bears flowers and fruit. Man, that’s what I call a multi-functional tree!

To make the paste, the bark (said to have a cork-like texture) is stripped from the tree and ground on a flat stone with a mortar. A small amount of water is added to this mixture and then applied to the skin. Normally a “primer coat” is applied first and more thanaka is later added where desired.

Myanmar people use thanaka according to their own personal preferences. Some like to dab a little bit of thanaka on their cheeks or nose, while others will use the paste to create intricate, artistic designs on their face. And some people just smear the stuff liberally all over themselves, resulting in a ghost-like appearance! Women of all ages love to use thanaka, and some men will use it, too. But most men tend to terminate their thanaka fixation by the time they reach their mid-teens.

While in Bagan I took my friend Jeff to a nearby village where they demonstrate weaving, cheroot making, and other skills. A woman in the village eagerly gave us a crash course in how to make and apply thanaka. I became the willing victim while Jeff and some local kids looked on, laughing at my “beautiful” new face!

Thanaka trees grow in many parts of Myanmar but are most predominant in the central part of the country near Mandalay. The districts of Shwebo and Sagaing are the two most popular thanaka-growing areas. It’s quite common to see small bundles of thanaka logs being sold in markets and even around pagodas. Some stores also sell it already mixed in paste or powder form.